Since the Skyline Parkway runs along the top of the mountain, it makes for reverse hiking, meaning climb down the mountain and back up. My trail was no different, and I began my descent on Cedar Run, a 3 mile trail that follows a creek. The White Oak Canyon trail has its own shorter trail, which seemed to be the popular choice (and 2-3 miles shorter). I would’ve ordinarily done that hike, but the rangers insisted that this loop was the proper way to see the trail.
The first waterfall I came across in Cedar Falls had a nice slope that people could slide down into its pool. I knew I only had time to enjoy one swim, and I was set on finding a cliff jumping area that some passing hikers gave me the scoop on. The first waterfall is where I spoke with Howard.
Howard, a local hiker, had just finished his waterfall session and spoke of his friends’ success; one a producer for Wes Anderson’s Grand Budapest Hotel, one an art collector with a museum in Potomac, MD. Unfamiliar with the sculptor, he described the experience of walking into the walls of what sound like a Richard Serra piece – high steel curves that lead you into his intended space (which he described as awkward).
Not much further down the trail, my ears were tickled by the sounds of deep splashes – the sound after jumping from a high spot. Once I made it to the clearing, I found two groups of teenagers diving and flipping from the fifteen foot rock edge into the deep, freshwater pool below.
After all the fun of cliff jumping, I had to get back on the trail if I was going to make it most of the way before dark. Shortly after, I met Whit and his granddaughter, Kaylyn, leaving the swimming hole in the same direction.
I needed to get my bearings on my location, so I asked Whit if he knew how far ahead the connecting path would be. I had assumed I was much further on my hike than I had been! His first reaction was to tell me to turn around and go back the way I came (I think it was 5:30pm at this point), since there was no way I’d make it out the other side before dark.
I mentioned that I packed my headlamp, and he politely modified his advice in case I had taken offense. “You look pretty gamey. If you packed your headlamp you should go for it.”
I’ve never heard someone use “gamey” to describe a person, but in bear country, it’s a compliment. Whit mentioned the notoriety of hike up the falls “breaking backpackers,” so I was mentally preparing for the hardship to come.
Photos and details of the rest of the experience to come.
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